As a great lover of our Cava, I flew to Barcelona in July for a short trip to visit our producer Oriol Rossell and his winemaker Salvi Moliner.
The Oriol Rossell estate is located in a protected area of the Alt Penedés, about an hour's drive south of Barcelona. The estate's origins date back to the late 16th century. This company has been passed down through generations, continually investing in new techniques such as fermentation and storage facilities. At the same time, they combine these with traditional techniques like hand harvesting and remuage (turning and gently shaking champagne bottles in the pupitre, which forces the yeast and other solids to settle on the cork).
Over 250 million bottles of Cava are now produced annually in Spain. That's almost as much as the annual production in Champagne. Just like in Champagne, this region is also seeing a growing number of winegrowers focusing on producing their own wine and selling less of their harvest directly to large producers.
Winemaker Salvi Moliner takes us directly to the vineyards upon arrival. Xarel-lo and Macabeu are planted on either side of the access road, along with Parellada, the main grapes they use.
The pleasant breeze blowing through the vineyards provides cooling. "That's one of the main reasons we can work organically," says Salvi. The constant Mediterranean wind blows mold and bacteria off the grape bunches, eliminating the need for pesticides. The grapes stay clean and the soil stays healthy. All Oriol Rossell wines are now certified organic!
A key development was the mapping of the soil variations in the vineyards (a total of 70 hectares). In one vineyard, we see primarily loam with somewhat deeper clay, while in another vineyard, 10 meters away, it's primarily clay with calcareous soil.
This allows for greater focus on the terroir, giving the wines a unique and distinctive character. The renowned Cuvée Especial, available in our store, comes from vineyards with primarily poor clay and limestone soil. "We use the fruit from approximately 45 hectares of our vineyards ourselves," says Salvi, "and we sell the rest."
In a very small vineyard behind the house, we find the oldest vines, planted around 1950. These are used for the Gran Reserva. From a small hill, we look out over a small valley with bush vines—plants that grow loosely, their leaves like parasols, protecting the grapes from the sun.
Arriving at the winery, which dates back to 1908, we walk into the room where the presses, tanks, and the selection table are located. The harvested grapes are delivered in 20kg crates, after which the grapes are hand-selected. The juice ferments plot by plot in large stainless steel tanks. Several plots are used in the blending process. Each Cava is a vintage, a wine from a single year. Therefore, there is no reserve wine, as is done in Champagne.
A total of over two hundred thousand bottles are fermenting, and another half a million are maturing. These are stacked, forming imposing walls. Some are placed in pupitres and are turned daily by hand. Gyropalettes are not used here. Once the remuage is complete, the bottles are replaced with bottles from the "wall." One floor below, the old underground tanks have been converted into chambers where the Gran Reserva is maturing. Filled to the brim and housed in beautiful, transparent bottles, it almost resembles a wall of gold. These wines are often aged here for at least 48 months to develop their flavor and aroma.
Besides Cava, they are also increasingly producing still wines, both white and red. The harvest from several hectares of Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon is aged for over 16 months in second- and third-year barrels.
In the tasting room, we were given two glasses: a traditional champagne glass and a wine glass. Salvi wants to show us the differences in style and how to best distinguish the flavors and aromas of each cuvée. In Spain, Brut Nature (no added sugar for the second fermentation) is the most popular. This wine is aged in the bottle for 20 months, giving it a fuller texture and more complex aroma. This is especially evident in the wine glass.
The Brut Cuvée Especial, available in our shop, is aged for over 12 months and has a lighter style; a perfect aperitif! The chalky soil of the vineyards lends a distinct mineral note.
We also tasted the Gran Reserva Brut Nature from old vines and the still wines, including 100% Macabeu, certified organic, just like the Cavas: a vinous feast. The combination of citrus fruit and a beautiful minerality is reminiscent of Albarino from Rías Baixas, but with more fleshiness.
For me it is clear: thanks to winemakers like Salvi, Cava can only grow in popularity!
A high-quality, all-rounder that, thanks to its attractive price, is also easier on the wallet than the well-known French bubbly. 